We used the road system quite a lot in Tanzania to go to Mwanza, Kigoma and back and we were far from impressed. Now we understand where all the road money goes... it's between Arusha and the nearby parks! It's so great to cruise on a beautiful asphalt road. We enjoy it while it lasts ;) It's very clear we're on the tourist track because every stop, street vendors rush to the car to sell us stuff. We've got quite a bit of driving today on our way to Serengeti and we have to pass by Ngorongoro crater.
Safari - Tarangire
We visit a few safari companies with Andreas and find something leaving 2 days from now. The rest of the day is entirely dedicated to chilling :D
Now that the safari business is settled, we can plan Zanzibar. In between power cuts we look for places to stay over there. The electricity problem in Moshi is another scandalous thing.
Kilimanjaro - the hard bit
The night was very cold again, it's tough to get out of bed. The sea of clouds is back this morning. The Kilimanjaro is basking in the morning sun and Mount Meru is a huge black mass like an island clearly visible in the sea of clouds. One could get use to such grandiose sights in the morning ;) We leave camp at 9am. It's a very short hike today which is fine since we'll leave around midnight for the summit. We're walking in a rocky desert. It's monotonous and a bit boring to be honest. Snow is falling when we arrive at Barafu camp. It took us 2h15 to cover the 4km (7180 steps). As suspected, this camp is at the advertised altitude (4670m) so we'll gain twice as much as what's recommended :/ Some people are coming down from the summit, it must have taken them about 12 hours for the round trip but they look okay.
Mozambicanidades
Mejores experiencias: avistar ballenas desde la playa y la terraza; volver a cocinar, sobre todo el pescado y marisco fresco de la mañana comprado en la puerta de casa; y hacer buceo de profundidad en los arrecifes de la península de Inhambane.
Mejor ciudad: Inhambane.
No recomiendo: volar con LAM.
Kilimanjaro - the easy bit
It all started with a frantic prep. Climbing that mountain requires a big organization. We'll have a crew of 19 for the 5 of us and everything has to be carried with us (tents, food, cooking stuff, …). Obviously the guys are used to it but still it looks a bit hectic. We all board what could be a school bus and are on our way. The ambiance is great in the bus, probably not unlike what you can have in a merry school bus :D The only problem we have is with the music... Celine Dion again! They need music therapy to get over that!!!
Al otro lado del canal de Mozambique
He aquí algunas de las cosas que se pueden hacer en diez días, con casa y sin vehículo, en el lado mozambicano del canal de Mozambique
La tierra de la buena gente
Inhambane, capital de la provincia homónima, es como Baeza pero costera y sin monumentos. ¿Que cuál es, entonces, la similitud? La vida tranquila de una ciudad pequeña y agradable cuya población es, simple y llanamente, buena gente. A terra da boa gente la llamó Vasco de Gama, agradecido por la hospitalidad de los lugareños, quienes en 1498 acogieron en sus casas al explorador y su tripulación para guarecerlos de la lluvia que regó su desembarco en estas costas. "Bhela nhumbane", les decían en bitonga: "entren en casa"; más de cinco siglos después, Inhambane, cuyo nombre proviene de aquella invitación, sigue acogiendo a sus viajeros con la misma hospitalidad.
Safari or not safari...
Mosquitoes were hungry in Kigoma and we leave them behind happily. Instead of a sandwich, we try the salad for the lunchbox; cutting empty plastic bottle and using them as container (the cut head upside down to close it). This time we accept the wrapping and ask for 2 plastic bags to maximize the protection... we'll see in Mwanza :/ The bus station is much smaller here and much quieter. For no clear reason though, they're blasting some Celine Dion at 5am... wtf is wrong with them! And it's not just one song but they seem to be playing all the greatest hits. Torture!
Maputo para principiantes
La primera, en la frente. No nos daba mucha confianza volar con LAM, pero no está el presupuesto como para demasiadas exigencias, así que después de la escala en Johannesburgo desde Tana nos encomendamos a Ícaro y a volar. Se ve que no era el buen patrono porque ya el aterrizaje es de traca. No lleva mucho tiempo, aunque sí dinero, sacar el visado mozambicano (muy serio, con foto y pegatina, y muy caro, en comparación con el malgache, que es un sello fechado a mano y gratuito), pero sí el suficiente para que al llegar a la cinta de equipajes solo quede la maleta de Ju. La mía está en paradero desconocido y en tres noches salimos para la playa. Estupendo.
Malgachidades
Mejores experiencias: via ferrata de los Tsingy de Bemaraha, atardecer en el paseo de los baobabs, y senderismo con acampada en el Parque Nacional de Ranomafana.
Mejor ciudad: Tana, aunque está muy contaminada porque los coches, si bien muy cuidados, son dinosaurios; para la playa, Morondava y su atardecer sobre el canal de Mozambique.
No recomiendo: el tren que conecta Fianarantsoa con la costa este.